Cesar Marquez Perez Sufreiral Mencia 2023

98 points Wine Advocate
The 2023 Sufreiral comes from a centenary plot in the village of Toral de los Vados on the other, southwest-facing side of Pico Ferreira, one of the few plots on limestone-based soils in Bierzo. It fermented in 1,000-liter vats, as he has different small plots that are vinified separately, with some 35% full clusters and indigenous yeasts (like all his wines). It matured in 600-liter oak barrels and a 1,200-liter oak vat for 12 months. It's very complete, floral and nuanced, elegant and fine-boned, with a different texture, chalky, given the limestone soils. The wine has 13.07% alcohol, a pH of 3.69 and 5.11 grams of acidity. 1,940 bottles were filled in January 2025.

Cesar Marquez Perez, Raul Perez's nephew, is one of the most precise winemakers in Bierzo with the family Castro Ventosa range and his personal project, which he started in 2015. In the 2023 vintage, he is releasing a new wine from the Villegas area, a lieu-dit in Valtuille on sandy soils. The single-vineyard wines are aging in increasingly larger oak containers, combining 1,200-liter vats with 500- and 600-liter barrels. He owns 7.2 hectares and works a further seven with local growers across Bierzo, from altitudes ranging between 450 to 850 meters above sea level. His production is slowly growing, and he now crafts 60,000 bottles per year.

As he told me while tasting the wines from the family winery, Castro Ventosa, which he also vinifies, "2023 was a cooler vintage with rain at the beginning of the harvest. The wines have a floral, serious and elegant profile with a contained alcohol content of 12.5% to 13%." These are some of the finest and more elegant wines he has produced so far.

PRODUCT DETAILS

• SKUPJ00381
• TypeRed Wine
• Sub-TypeMencia
• CountrySpain
• RegionGalicia
• Size750mL
• ABV13.07%
• Vintage2023

RATINGS & AWARDS

• WA 98