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#53 On The Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines Of 2024!

93 points Wine Spectator
Richly savory on the nose, this fresh, sinewy red features a minerally underpinning of petrol, earth, iron and salt to the flavors of juicy dried cherry and cranberry, red licorice and mandarin orange peel. Opens nicely in the glass and on the palate, with the persistent finish showing aromatic herbs and spices, plus more mineral notes. Tempranillo, Garnacho, Graciano and Mazuelo. Drink now through 2031.

94 points Wine Advocate
The 2011 Viña Tondonia Reserva is darker and shows riper fruit, a rounder palate and some dusty tannins. A year of ripeness, concentration and tannin, the wine is powerful with the finesse of Tondonia. Tasting this next to the textbook 2010 Tondonia revealed how this has more muscle and a wider back and the 2010 epitomizes the finesse and elegance. 270,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2019.

95 points James Suckling
A really fresh and serious nose here with mineral, subtle cream and freshly squeezed lemon zest. Lime and a hint of meringue, too. This is really zingy, chalky, fresh and packed with a very taut mid-palate and a long, mouthwatering finish. Effortless drinkability and you barely feel any alcohol here. A hint of white almond at the end. 80% viura and 20% garnacha blanca. Exciting! Drink or hold.

93+ points Wine Advocate
The white 2021 Blanco wants to go back to the traditional whites from Rioja with aging potential but keeping the floral and fruit-driven character using 500-liter barrels. It's mostly Viura, with 20% Garnacha Blanca, and it has a moderate 12.44% alcohol and amazing freshness and acidity parameters (pH 3.07 and 7.01 grams of acidity). This feels like a light vintage, and it's more herbal (fennel emerges with time...), balsamic and with a smoky touch. It has lower alcohol and, therefore, more noticeable acidity and ends with a dry, chalky finish. The oak is nicely integrated (they stopped using 225-liter barrels for this wine), and the palate is fine-boned, lively and lighter than in the initial vintages..

Organic

92 points Wine Advocate
I also tasted the 2022 Vi??edos en Labastida. The wines are produced in a similar way to highlight the differences of the places and vintages. In 2022, it's a similar blend of different plots with some 85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha and 5% white grapes, and it had a similar vinification and ??levage in 500- and 600-liter oak foudres in their cave. It's very primary and fruit-driven, with a nose of ripe berries and herbs, a lactic twist and a fine thread in the palate, with surprisingly fine tannins for a 2022. 3,600 bottles were filled in September 2023.

These are some of the most exciting new Riojas in the market.
Before modern or traditional Rioja, there was a simpler style of whole-cluster, co-fermented, and shortly-aged wines that were as naked and honest an expression of Rioja as one could find. So it's no surprise that Jos?? Gil followed in his ancestors' footsteps with focus in the vineyard rather than the cellar - which happens to be a cave in the outskirts of San Vicente.

Jose currently farms 5 hectares of vines located in the villages of San Vicente, Labastida, and Briones. Practices are manual and organic although he is not certified. The vines range in age from 5 to 130 years old with the majority Tempranillo, a small percentage of Viura. The oldest vineyard plots are co-planted with tiny percentages of other grape varieties which include Garnacha and Palomino. When the grapes reach the cellar after being harvested by hand, they are fermented either whole-cluster, or partially destemmed. All fermentations are by indigenous yeasts and extraction is gentle. After pressing the wines are racked into 225-300L French oak barrels and transported to the aging cellar in San Vicente.