Autumn Picks

Organic

92 points Wine Advocate
A terrific vintage for this wine, which was bottled just a couple of weeks prior to my late June visit, the 2021 Cotes du Rhone Coudoulet de Beaucastel is a blend of 30% each Grenache, Mourvdre and Syrah, plus 10% Cinsault. From a vineyard just outside the boundaries of the appellation of Chteauneuf-du-Pape, it's a remarkably consistent wine and always a solid value. Scents of sunbaked stones, black cherries and licorice appear on the nose, joined by hints of purple raspberries and dark chocolate, while the medium to full-bodied palate is lush and velvety, finishing long and complex.

92 points James Suckling
Very attractive red cherry fruit fills out the medium-bodied palate where the fine tannins underline this very well. Impressive length with plenty of licorice and a touch of candied citrus at the long, crisp and emphatically dry finish. A cuvee based on grenache and mourvedre. From organically grown grapes. Drink from release.

The first thing you will notice about this wine is the playful and yet confusing label, which does not get easier to decipher after a few glasses. Well, the winery is stronger in winemaking than marketing for this is a delicious daily drinker. A subtle floral bouquet (violets) graces the senses while the body of the wine is brimming with ripe blackberries and a pepper note. Although this wine is generous on the palate it is also soft texturally and very easy to drink. The tannins are subtle, no oak barrels used here, and the alcohol is mild at 12.5% abv. This extremely pleasurable red is less power and more finesse which is not easy to achieve in the Languedoc-Roussillon.

80% Grenache and 20% Syrah fermented in temperature controlled tanks with a cuvaison up to one month. Aged for 4 months in tank.

"Le Loup dans la Bergerie" loosely translates as "The wolf in the hen house".

Organic / Natural

This is an incredible find in Loire Valley Cabernet Franc. This has everything you could want in a classically styled Chinon but with a “new-age” touch of freshness (no oak used, only concrete). The bouquet wafts out of the glass displaying notes of wildflowers, blackberries and bell peppers. This medium-bodied Cabernet Franc has the classic spice and pyrazine (green notes) Chinon is known for but not in a stemmy or unripe fruit way. It is subtle and adds a desired complexity. This is bright and joyful and should not be missed by Loire Valley wine enthusiasts. Lower its temperature for maximum enjoyment! Organic / Natural. 12% abv.

At the crossroads of traditional Chinon and modern, youthful winemaking you will find Domaine de la Mariniere. The depth and purity of the fruit they achieve ia terrific.

The Domaine de la Mariniere, situated in Panzoult on the eastern edge of Chinon, has been farmed by the Desbourdes family since 1965. The land here was initially used as a true, polyculture farm, raising animals and growing cereal grains in addition to grapes. Renaud Desbourdes returned to help his father in the 1980s, turning the focus to grape growing and winemaking and expanding the vineyard plantings, and eventually took full control of the domaine in 1999 when his father retired. Today, Renaud’s son, Boris, has joined his father full-time and is helping to take this traditional family domaine into the next generation.

Boris initially became passionate about organic farming after working with Vincent Laval in Champagne, and upon his return, he immediately transitioned his family’s vineyards to organics (certified in 2018). The 15 hectares of vines average 30 years old (with some old parcels having been planted in the ‘50s and ‘60s) and are planted on a mix of gravelly sand and limestone soils on the hillsides. In addition to the increased focus on farming, Boris has introduced hand-harvesting and the use of native yeast for fermentations. The result of all of this work is a set of wines that are at the forefront of a modern approach to classic Chinon, combining the best of old traditions with youthful energy.

Cuvee 2020. For those who like their cider a bit on the drier side, the pear cuvee from Eric Bordelet is perfect. Lots of fruit but a cleaner finish. Although apple is the traditional drink in the region, as well as the traditional accompaniment to crepes, the pear has a vibrancy we connect with. Why not grab both and decide for yourself? - PJ